from Thermop to Dubois

The river which runs along the highway as you leave Thermopolis is the Big Horn River. Going south the first thing you come to The Wedding of the Waters, just north of the entrance to Wind River Canyon. Apparently, this river had two names for a long time--the Crow and Absaroka Indians called it the Wind River, and the settlers to the north the Big Horn River. It was decided at some point to simply have a place where the name changes and that spot is called The Wedding of the Waters. Wind River Canyon is scenic enough to warrant driving slowly, although you will no doubt annoy the locals who speed through it. As you drive along, signs help you recognize various geologic eras which are visible in the canyon's rock walls. The Wind River which runs through it is wild and rocky and apparently a good one for rafting. There's nice camping along here as well. Trains run along the opposite bank and sometimes you can see people driving special trucks on the tracks.

At the south end, there's a dam and then the Boysen reservoir opens up on the plain. Boysen is a large lake in a state park. If this lake were natural, I am sure the pioneers would have been very excited!! The land around it could be considered boring as it rolls a little, is arid and dry with sagebrush. Prime rattlesnake land--and rumor has it that they swim, in balls, in Boysen. However! The lake is heavily used for fishing, boating, etc., in the summer. Lots of camping around here. For some reason, the desolate land appeals to me, just as the road from Shoshoni to Casper does. The fierceness of the weather and open space is delicious--and also formidable in the right circumstances.

The small town where the road comes to a T is Shoshoni. Shoshoni is famous for the Yellowstone Drug Store which makes malts. That's to the left, on the left side, in its new home. Shoshoni is a fun place to poke around if you like abandoned buildings.

Turning right takes you to Riverton. You can go to Riverton and turn west, or you can turn west part way along where the sign says Pavillion. This takes you into some back country through Pavillion and is a nice way to get a feel for the land. It also cuts off 7 miles and avoids the traffic of Riverton. Pavillion is a tiny place with a school, a bar and some houses. Rumor has it that the bar, Miss Ginny's Roost, has excellent food, but I haven't had the chance to try it for myself as of yet.

The road takes a sharp turn to the south after Pavillion (which most people might think is a blink and you'll miss it town, but wait--this is bigger than some coming up!) and comes out at Kinnear, also a small place. The next spot with a sign is Morton--truly a place where if you blink you'll miss it. It appears to be occupied by a ranch with an old house that is falling apart next to it.

I suggest stopping at the rest stop that comes after the turn to Ethete--it is the last place to go to the bathroom until Dubois. At this point, you enter the Wind River Reservation. This is tribal land, and is governed by the Shoshone and Arapahoe Tribes. Going off the road is not a good plan unless you have prior permission from the landowners, although there are points where you can access the river for fishing. There's also a couple of dams and lakes which I believe you can go to, but you do need a Tribal fishing license--not a Wyo Game and Fish license. Not sure where you get those. The land as you drive west through Crowheart is open valley between mountains. After you pass Crowheart (a long blink on the road) and Burris (a much smaller blink--I missed it and I was looking for it), watch to the right. The cliffs emerge, dramatically striped with a lot of iron created-red and grey and eroding, exposed rock. If you look, you can also find purples and blues in the cliffs. Behind the cliffs rise the Wind River Mountains, often snowy.

If you are driving this road in late afternoon or early morning, watch carefully for deer--a lot of them like the fields around here and they like to cross in front of cars. They are in no hurry whatsoever. Dubois, a sweet little town that bills itself as the gateway to Yellowstone, deserves its own post.

Thermop...

is an affectionate nickname for Thermopolis, WY, a city in the center of the state. Thermopolis, which means city of heat in Greek, is home to the largest mineral hot springs in the world. The presence of these springs creates a microclimate unlike the rest of the state--somewhat warmer and slightly more humid. The city is home to Hot Springs State Park, which includes a recently refurbished free bath house with indoor and outdoor pools and comfortable dressing rooms. The mineral water creates all sorts of interesting colors with the deposits. This tendency of the water has been exploited in a couple of fountains where the water comes over the top and runs down over rock which then changes color as minerals are deposited on it. You can drink the water, and it is probably even good for you, but it sure doesn't taste too yummy!

Some information in here I have mentioned in an earlier post. You might check it out for some elaboration and repetition. A good, cheap place to stay that I just discovered is Roundtop Mountain Motel, just outside the park. They have scrupulously clean cabins with kitchenettes only 4 blocks away for much cheaper.

Thermop is also the home town of our current governor, Dave Freudenthal.

Downtown is quaint, although perhaps struggling a bit. There are some empty storefronts, and those who come here often know that businesses come and go. For instance, for a few years, there was a fabulous artist-owned gallery on Broadway. There's several antique shops/flea markets, as well, but they seem to shift about periodically. One constant on Broadway has been Keeping You in Stitches, the quilt shop. They have a lovely selection of fabric and quilting supplies, and also partner in hosting a quilting retreat each year. I noted today that there's a new yarn and needlecraft shop across the street from it which I am looking forward to checking out tomorrow.

Thermopolis is home to the Dinosaur museum, which I talked about in an earlier post. Another museum worth checking out is Dancing Bear Folk Center, in the Old West Wax Museum complex. Dancing Bear celebrates the many crafts people have done for centuries such as spinning, weaving, food preservation, tatting and much much more. It also, curiously, includes a large collection of teddy bears. The Old West Wax Museum is "a historic wax museum focusing on the American West frontier and folk history and culture" which has figures made in some very specific style I can't recall right now.

Thermop also has a strong drama program in its high school. If you happen to be in town on the rare occasion that they offer a play, I recommend attending. They have one of the nicest auditoriums in the state and take full advantage of it.

Pictures of Jeffrey City

A street (looking north) slowly being reclaimed by the grass. Off to the left is a derelict tennis court.

These are some images I took in Jeffrey City recently. Jeffrey City is the only town between between Muddy Gap and Lander on Highway 287. It was once a boom town--uranium mining--and currently has a very small population who work mostly on ranches. Rumor has it that it might boom again--can't remember what it is they think they'll mine there but surely something that will damage the landscape and people's health. Right now it is a sleepy place that the landscape are beginning to retake. I was there in April 2008, about 2 weeks after the last major snowfall, on a very windy day. The wind just sweeps through there.

A closed restaurant with snow piled up in front of it (north facing).

One of the buildings where they housed men who worked in the mines. Below is one of the old gas stations. On the back, which faces a road coming out from the Red Desert and the mines, it says "Flats Fixed."

The only signs of current life I saw are below, other than the post office's drop area (Jeffrey City doesn't have a post office anymore, just a stoutly built shelter on what must have been a town square idea. It houses locked mailboxes and a mail bin for sending things out. I am not sure where you purchase stamps.

WY High School Art Symposium

This is a must-see event if you happen to be in state at the right time. On the third week of April, a group of high school art teachers put on an exhibit of student work. This exhibit includes more than 75 high schools and over 4000 pieces of artwork of every description! It takes place in Casper and is open to the public all day Friday and Saturday morning of that weekend. It is free.

Saratoga

Saratoga is one of Wyoming's hidden beauties. A small town in southern Wyoming, it has a gorgeous hot spring. It is close to the Sierra Madre mountains which offer hiking opportunities, beautiful drives and the opportunity to learn about a gold rush which took place in the area. Apparently, it is a highly historic area. Besides this...Saratoga has hot springs. There's a public pool, called the Hobo Pool, which is free and open to the public. You can sit in its scalding hot water, and then climb down to the river and sit in the pool where the spring empties out and mixes with the cold water. Refreshing.

Saratoga also has the Saratoga Inn. If you are looking for a place to stay, this is it. Very comfortable beds. Clean and friendly. Good food. A nice place for a meeting or retreat. The three buildings are built around a courtyard. The fourth building is a spa. In the courtyard there is a pool of hot springs water, and not a small one either, but big enough to actually get up a little swimming speed before you have to turn around. Then there's about 6 hot tub pools, some covered with teepees and others open to the stars. It is all deliciously warm and wonderful in the cold weather, especially when it snows.

The town is cute. You can walk most places. There's art galleries, and Laura M's. Laura M is a clothing designer who makes everything in her store. Lovely stuff, lots of variety. The Hotel Wolf is a historic hotel, nice to stay in with a good restaurant. Across the street is the Lazy River Cantina, mexican food, very popular.

In the summer, the local arts council hosts an artfair and gala around the 4th with all sorts of events. This is also a good time to go over the snowy range mountains which have breathtaking views.

All in all, a good place to come for a relaxing time.

Jackson, con't

Two organizations I would love to be involved in more reside in Jackson, too far for all the fabulous classes and opportunities they offer. Those are the Dancers' Workshop.

The Dancers Workshop, in the same building, offers dance classes in everything from ballet to hip hop, modern to ballroom dancing, plus yoga and something which looks very painful called jazzercise (I think I spelled that right). I was watching one of the jazzercise classes last time I was there and thinking this is dance? It looks very, um, mechanical, not to mention aerobic (not that dance isn't aerobic, but this had no redeeming gracefulness). The director, a sweet lady and excellent teacher, dancer and choreographer, told me that isn't one of their classes, however; the lady rents the space from them. Dancers' Workshop has 4 beautiful classrooms, which any dance studio would die for, and one of them is a blackbox theatre. See, I could be taking classes and attending dance performances if I lived there. Dancers' Workshop also houses Contemporary Dance Wyoming, our own wonderful and sole professional modern dance troupe.

All this, and so much more I haven't even mentioned here, in a town of less than 9000. They also have the National Museum of Wildlife Art (which currently, 8/2006, has an amazing Andy Warhol show), Jackson Hole Film Festival and the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival, plus the Jackson Hole Music Experience and so much more. Most of these and more at the

Jackson

Jackson, ah, Jackson. A lot of people don't like Jackson, but I think that is because they see the surface only. If you spend some time there and get to know locals, and see what is happening under the polished western facade, Jackson starts to look quite wonderful. The Grand Teton Music Festival, for example. Not only is it a world class music festival, but they offer free private lessons to middle and high school kids during the school year. How cool is that? They support local musicians, and grow student abilities, while boosting the music program at schools.

I am in love with Jackson, truly in love. I could live there, if only I could afford it.

Evanston

Evanston is a town in the far southwest corner of Wyoming. While many people seem to think Evanston is a town to blow through on the way to Salt Lake City, I am very fond of it and always enjoy my visits.

One of my favorite places to eat and visit is Main Street Artisans. Right downtown on Main Street, this sweet cafe and gallery has just been remodeled for its 10th anniversary. They carry a variety of artwork from Wyoming artists, also art teachers, including Chris Amend, John Webelow, Bill Yankee and Terri Thurman. They make all their own food and it is good--salads, soups, sandwiches and cakes. Not to mention drinks.

Evanston has several other good restaurants. It also has a lovely remodeled depot, and a train yard, I guess it is, which is slated to become a town center. They have most of a roundhouse which they plan to convert to city offices and a plaza. They've already converted the machine house into a community use space for holding events. Elements of the original building can still be seen, including the train tracks and holes in the floor used for working on engines.

Evanston has an active music education and music scene which Bear River State Park along the river.

Lander

I'll probably have to write quite a lot about Lander over time. Lander is one of my favorite towns in Wyoming. For one thing, it is about the size Port Townsend was when I moved there, and I liked that--about 5000 people. Lots of artists, with a core of non-art people who have lived here forever. It has a sweet downtown and some very good eateries. The Cowfish and the Gannett Grill, right next to each other, are two of my favorites. The Gannett is casual--huge salads, pizza, burgers and some more "healthy" type stuff. There's a bar attached and a deck to eat outside. The Cowfish is more upscale with sophiscated Asian and American cross cusine. A section of their menu is called "Bowl Food" and, well, you get this huge bowl of spaghetti, or Thai curry, or other interesting food. The Gannett and the Cowfish share a yard and they have an organic garden which provides herbs and vegetables for salads and flavoring, and the Gannett serves organic beef, too. Definite points in their favor! They have a brewery attached, which provides the beer for the Gannett too. It's a Snake River Brewery, which originated in Jackson, and they have some nice beers. Nothing like that Framboise Lambic I mentioned a post or two ago, but some very good ones. There is also an excellent bakery called Wildflower which bakes yummy fresh bread, makes soup and sandwiches and good coffee.

Lander is a great town to walk in--the Popo Agie river runs through it and there's a river walk which feels secluded and wild. There's a mixture of house styles which is pleasing to the eye. Sinks Canyon State Park is just a few minutes away and this is a park that should be on the MUST SEE list. The Sinks are fascinating and there's nothing like this anywhere in the world--the water goes underground and no one really knows where it goes, or what it does, until it rises further downstream. They know it is the same water because they did die tests. There's a gorgeous hike up to a waterfall, but I don't recommend it for anyone who is not acclimated to the altitude. It is quite a climb, but breathtakingly beautiful--both the way, and the falls. Don't think too hard about swimming, though, because the water is cold. Very cold. Ice melt cold. Teeth aching cold. But possibly worth it on a very hot summer day, as you'll be practically dead anyway once you get there and it will revive you.

Enough for now, as I don't want to just skim over everything Lander has to offer.

Lit Mail

One way to find out about things happening around the state and the region, particularly in Literature, is to read the WyoLitMail blog. The blog is a spin off of a weekly newsletter on literature and other related items in Wyoming and the Rocky Mountain region that Michael Shay produces on a weekly basis from the Wyoming Arts Council. It is a great way to learn about recent books by Wyoming artists and for musings about literature in general.

Jeffreys

Jeffrey's Bistro is my very favorit-ist place to eat in Laramie. It is a contender for all time Wyoming favorite, too. I go there whenever possible, which is not always as often as I would like. They make everything from scratch; much of it is vegetarian, or can be; and they have an eclectic mix of food. On Fridays they make clam chowder, deliciously full of clams, potatoes and other good stuff, and without bacon! The salads are huge. They have this great full meal deal where, for a few dollars more, you get soup or salad, choice of dessert and coffee or tea. A very good deal indeed. Dinners consist of such delicious things as stir fries with many possible add-ins, seafood tetrazzini, siamese chicken and broccoli.... I have never had a thing I didn't like there.

The real problem with the good food is that you can get too full to have dessert and that is really a dumb thing to do. Sara's desserts are fabulous! I am a baker, and I regularly don't have dessert because I can nearly always make it better, but not at Jeffrey's. I have never met this woman, but I have a lot of respect for a baker who is as consistent as she is at 7000 feet. They consistently have at least 10 desserts, the regulars, and then usually also a special. One of her specials is frangipani tart with cherries. Some regulars include a Ghiradelli Chocolate Cherry Torte, a Mocha Butter Crunch Pie, Tiramisu, fruit crisps of varying flavors, and always at least 4 differently flavored cheesecakes.

Today I also had this lovely stuff called Framboise Lambic Ale. I have never had this before, and I highly recommend it, even if it is expensive for a beer. It is imported from Belgium, and has a gorgeous garnet color and a very strong raspberry flavor. They suggested it as a dessert beer, so I had it for that, and, well, yum!!

All this to say, this is not a restaurant to skip if you are going through Laramie.

Closed roads

This evening there's snow in the southeast of Wyoming. Cheyenne got at least 6 inches--it snowed all day, and was apparently worse after I left about 5. I'm in Laramie now, and it is snowing here. It was warmer today, so there is a sheen of ice on most of the roads and cars and everything. People are off the road all over the place because they haven't slowed down, and now the interstates are closed--no unnecessary travel. Wyo roads are nothing to play with when the weather is bad. I recommend going very slow, or just not traveling at all (I'm holed up in a hotel, and happy about it!).

Thermopolis

Thermopolis is a lovely little town in the center of the state with one of the world's largest natural hot springs. Thermopolis is the site of Hot Springs State Park, which has a free bathhouse. The park is a beautiful site where the hot springs run over colored terraces and which is the home to the Hot Springs Bison Herd.

There are two nice hotels in the park itself--the Best Western Plaza Inn and the Holiday Inn. The Best Western is a restored hotel with log furniture and breakfast and a hot springs fed hot pool, plus a swimming pool in the summer. The Holiday Inn also has a hot springs pool and a restaurant. The hotel has a safari theme with pictures of people hunting and many preserved animals all over the place.

Downtown there's a lovely gallery and museum. Sunshine Gallery is owned by a local metal artist and stocks artwork by artists from in state and elsewhere across the country. There's an excellent museum well worth the stop called Dancing Bear Folk Art Center. This center showcases traditional arts, including exhibits and demonstrations of spinning, weaving, food ways, marbles, needle felting and much more. It has the largest collection of artist bears in the country. During the annual marble exhibit, which includes old and new marbles of all sizes, they have a variety of marble games available to play with, including musical marble trees. Above the Folk Arts Center is the Old West Wax Museum.

One other spot to stop is Domhoff Gallery, which is on the Worland road north of town on the west side. Two potters live there, mother and son, and they do unusual dinnerware and a variety of other functional pottery. They were both trained in Germany.

Restaurant Disclaimer

Before I go any further into restaurants, here is the disclaimer.

I am picky. I grew up with two parents who cook "gourmet," although their definitions of that are very different, and one, at least, would be offended by the designation (the trials of having parents!). I prefer to eat fresh food, and organic, if possible. I like to cook, and love to bake, and am sometimes (regularly) good at it.

I eat out ALL the time. Way too often, really.

This might let you know why I tend to be somewhat negative about restaurants.

Dinosaurs

Wyoming is a state for dinosaurs. If you want to see evidence of their existence, come here. National Geographic had a "top ten" list sometime this last year compiled by a dinosaur expert. Wyoming was one his picks for places to find dinosaur artifacts. 50 different kinds of dinosaurs have been discovered in Wyoming, and skeletons from here are in museums all over the world.

If you like dinosaurs, try some of these spots:

The Wyoming Dinosaur Center in Thermopolis. They have a museum with mounted dinosaur skeletons and you can tour actual dig sites. Besides, Thermop is a great town to spend some time in.

Red Gulch Dinosaur Track Site: when you leave Thermopolis, drive north into the Big Horn Basin through Worland to Greybull and then turn east on US 14 towards Shell. Along the route you'll find a turn for the track site. It is a couple miles south on a dirt road. This is a fabulous spot for kids and adults alike. Out in the high desert, where there used to be a tropical sea, there are actual dinosaur footprints where there used to be a beach. There is nothing in the world like dinosaur tracks! There are interpretive signs, and a picnic area.

Western Wyoming Community College has a large dinosaur exhibit.

The University of Wyoming Geology Museum, in Laramie on the University campus, houses skeletons of dinosaurs and other early mammals, including large aquatic mammals.

On US highway 30 between Rock River and Medicine Bow, there is a site called Como Bluff. It is on the north side of the road. There is a queer little cabin/museum, the Dinosaur Fossile Cabin Museum, which is only open in the summer. It is made entirely of dinosaur bone fragments. It is private property, so be careful, but you can see and read a little.

An interesting piece of related trivia: Wyoming is apparently one of only two states to have both a state dinosaur (the Triceratops) and a state fossil (a small fish called Knightia). See if your state has a state fossil here.

Rock Springs 1

I have mixed feelings about Rock Springs (RS), which is why I have put a "1" in there because I am sure I will be coming back to it.

The thing about RS is that I am never quite comfortable here. The town has had a relatively large transient population ever since its conception. The mining for trona is booming here and so there are a lot of people in town who aren't staying for long. The economy, like much of Wyo, is boom and bust depending on minerals, oil, and demand. Right now, Sweetwater County is booming and RS, the bigger town in the county, is where all these extra people live. There is only one other town of any size and that is Green River, but they don't have the infrastructure RS does.

RS does have a cute downtown, rather historic. It does not bustle--most of the shopping in town takes place down by the freeway. In the library is the Community Fine Arts Center which shows artwork by local artists and artists with some sort of history in RS. They have a great collection of work by high school students, as well.

What RS does not have is food. Food choices are very standard chains mostly, with one exception--Bitter Creek Brewery (604 Broadway). Very good beers, and good food, if a bit expensive. Nice atmosphere. Definitely my favorite place to eat in town.

RS also has a very neat store called Local Color Art & Gift Gallery at 513 Bridger Ave. Located in a historic building, there are three floors of arts made locally. Lots of pottery, some nature photography and a lot more. Worth checking out.

The Holiday Inn has been refurbished and is very nice to stay in. The Comfort Inn, across the street, is going Quality. I don't know if that will change this but! they used to have a huge breakfast offering, and a free happy hour in the evening with beer and wine.

Rawlins...

Rawlins is a growing town. You can learn more about Rawlins, home of the Old Penitentiary, from the Chamber website. Lore I have picked up says that the State Pen used to have an excellent store which sold stuff made by the prisoners, but, alas, said store is no more (not enough space).

Rawlins is at a crossroads--I80 runs right through it, and the turn to go to Casper or Lander/Riverton leaves from here. It isn't a particularly pretty town on the surface, but don't be deceived. There's a lot of energy.

There's a new Comfort Inn and it's shiny and comfortable, with a "deluxe" breakfast. The Lodge at Rawlins has recently become the Quality Inn--this is since August, when we were last here. Rumor has it that they are losing population, but another rumor says they issued a LOT of drivers licenses recently. So who knows. Anyway.

We went to go for dinner, me eagerly anticipating dinner at Anong's Thai, the only Thai restaurant in this part of Wyoming (one of only 4 known to me in the state--two in Jackson, and one which barely deserves mention in Lander). It was closed--but luckily that's temporary, so you'll still be able to try it when you come through. It is located downtown at 210 5th Street. This little restaurant is a breath of fresh air in this town. It is painted a deep red and has elegant, modern furniture. The food is also fabulous.

Since it was closed, we went to the Aspen House (318 5th Street) instead. Food is good, if expensive. They serve a mix of steaks and Chinese/Singaporean inspired food. I had a chicken stir fry which was full of vegetables--shitakes, snow peas, broccoli, carrots (that's just a few), and lots of chicken. The sauce was a bit much though. Brown Chinese, a bit strong and too much of it. My dining partner had a Singapore Blackened Beef, which I did not try, but it was huge chunks of beef in a black sauce--very dramatic and elegant. He said it was good.

We were both disappointed to see that the Blake House, which opened earlier this year, has already closed. That was good, and the people who owned it seemed very community minded. Rumor has it they couldn't find consistent help.

Other than food, Rawlins has a very cool Concerts in the Park series in the summertime. Thursday nights in the park. They serve up a mix of jazz, folk, local and other music, free to anyone wanting to come. Local restaurants and groups offer food for sale as fundraisers. They also do a fundraiser every week for a local non-profit.

You should also stop by the Depot, downtown. It has been restored nicely.

First Post

Less than a week and I already have two blogs! This is silly. However. This blog is going to be intermittent only, and has a specific purpose. I travel, you see, for my job. Somewhere I would like to see someone write something positive about traveling in Wyoming, and a place to record all the wonderful things to see here. So I am creating it. I did a search recently and found that most people comment on how empty it is. Here's an example. Although he isn't really wrong. Wyoming has a lot of empty space, which is one of its charms in my book. This blog has pictures of some parts of Wyoming--you have to search it for the Wyoming pictures, because they are old.

Remind me to talk about dinosaurs sometime soon. Wyoming has amazing dinosaur history and resources.

So check back periodically and learn more about Wyoming!