from Thermop to Dubois

The river which runs along the highway as you leave Thermopolis is the Big Horn River. Going south the first thing you come to The Wedding of the Waters, just north of the entrance to Wind River Canyon. Apparently, this river had two names for a long time--the Crow and Absaroka Indians called it the Wind River, and the settlers to the north the Big Horn River. It was decided at some point to simply have a place where the name changes and that spot is called The Wedding of the Waters. Wind River Canyon is scenic enough to warrant driving slowly, although you will no doubt annoy the locals who speed through it. As you drive along, signs help you recognize various geologic eras which are visible in the canyon's rock walls. The Wind River which runs through it is wild and rocky and apparently a good one for rafting. There's nice camping along here as well. Trains run along the opposite bank and sometimes you can see people driving special trucks on the tracks.

At the south end, there's a dam and then the Boysen reservoir opens up on the plain. Boysen is a large lake in a state park. If this lake were natural, I am sure the pioneers would have been very excited!! The land around it could be considered boring as it rolls a little, is arid and dry with sagebrush. Prime rattlesnake land--and rumor has it that they swim, in balls, in Boysen. However! The lake is heavily used for fishing, boating, etc., in the summer. Lots of camping around here. For some reason, the desolate land appeals to me, just as the road from Shoshoni to Casper does. The fierceness of the weather and open space is delicious--and also formidable in the right circumstances.

The small town where the road comes to a T is Shoshoni. Shoshoni is famous for the Yellowstone Drug Store which makes malts. That's to the left, on the left side, in its new home. Shoshoni is a fun place to poke around if you like abandoned buildings.

Turning right takes you to Riverton. You can go to Riverton and turn west, or you can turn west part way along where the sign says Pavillion. This takes you into some back country through Pavillion and is a nice way to get a feel for the land. It also cuts off 7 miles and avoids the traffic of Riverton. Pavillion is a tiny place with a school, a bar and some houses. Rumor has it that the bar, Miss Ginny's Roost, has excellent food, but I haven't had the chance to try it for myself as of yet.

The road takes a sharp turn to the south after Pavillion (which most people might think is a blink and you'll miss it town, but wait--this is bigger than some coming up!) and comes out at Kinnear, also a small place. The next spot with a sign is Morton--truly a place where if you blink you'll miss it. It appears to be occupied by a ranch with an old house that is falling apart next to it.

I suggest stopping at the rest stop that comes after the turn to Ethete--it is the last place to go to the bathroom until Dubois. At this point, you enter the Wind River Reservation. This is tribal land, and is governed by the Shoshone and Arapahoe Tribes. Going off the road is not a good plan unless you have prior permission from the landowners, although there are points where you can access the river for fishing. There's also a couple of dams and lakes which I believe you can go to, but you do need a Tribal fishing license--not a Wyo Game and Fish license. Not sure where you get those. The land as you drive west through Crowheart is open valley between mountains. After you pass Crowheart (a long blink on the road) and Burris (a much smaller blink--I missed it and I was looking for it), watch to the right. The cliffs emerge, dramatically striped with a lot of iron created-red and grey and eroding, exposed rock. If you look, you can also find purples and blues in the cliffs. Behind the cliffs rise the Wind River Mountains, often snowy.

If you are driving this road in late afternoon or early morning, watch carefully for deer--a lot of them like the fields around here and they like to cross in front of cars. They are in no hurry whatsoever. Dubois, a sweet little town that bills itself as the gateway to Yellowstone, deserves its own post.

Thermop...

is an affectionate nickname for Thermopolis, WY, a city in the center of the state. Thermopolis, which means city of heat in Greek, is home to the largest mineral hot springs in the world. The presence of these springs creates a microclimate unlike the rest of the state--somewhat warmer and slightly more humid. The city is home to Hot Springs State Park, which includes a recently refurbished free bath house with indoor and outdoor pools and comfortable dressing rooms. The mineral water creates all sorts of interesting colors with the deposits. This tendency of the water has been exploited in a couple of fountains where the water comes over the top and runs down over rock which then changes color as minerals are deposited on it. You can drink the water, and it is probably even good for you, but it sure doesn't taste too yummy!

Some information in here I have mentioned in an earlier post. You might check it out for some elaboration and repetition. A good, cheap place to stay that I just discovered is Roundtop Mountain Motel, just outside the park. They have scrupulously clean cabins with kitchenettes only 4 blocks away for much cheaper.

Thermop is also the home town of our current governor, Dave Freudenthal.

Downtown is quaint, although perhaps struggling a bit. There are some empty storefronts, and those who come here often know that businesses come and go. For instance, for a few years, there was a fabulous artist-owned gallery on Broadway. There's several antique shops/flea markets, as well, but they seem to shift about periodically. One constant on Broadway has been Keeping You in Stitches, the quilt shop. They have a lovely selection of fabric and quilting supplies, and also partner in hosting a quilting retreat each year. I noted today that there's a new yarn and needlecraft shop across the street from it which I am looking forward to checking out tomorrow.

Thermopolis is home to the Dinosaur museum, which I talked about in an earlier post. Another museum worth checking out is Dancing Bear Folk Center, in the Old West Wax Museum complex. Dancing Bear celebrates the many crafts people have done for centuries such as spinning, weaving, food preservation, tatting and much much more. It also, curiously, includes a large collection of teddy bears. The Old West Wax Museum is "a historic wax museum focusing on the American West frontier and folk history and culture" which has figures made in some very specific style I can't recall right now.

Thermop also has a strong drama program in its high school. If you happen to be in town on the rare occasion that they offer a play, I recommend attending. They have one of the nicest auditoriums in the state and take full advantage of it.

Evanston

Evanston is a town in the far southwest corner of Wyoming. While many people seem to think Evanston is a town to blow through on the way to Salt Lake City, I am very fond of it and always enjoy my visits.

One of my favorite places to eat and visit is Main Street Artisans. Right downtown on Main Street, this sweet cafe and gallery has just been remodeled for its 10th anniversary. They carry a variety of artwork from Wyoming artists, also art teachers, including Chris Amend, John Webelow, Bill Yankee and Terri Thurman. They make all their own food and it is good--salads, soups, sandwiches and cakes. Not to mention drinks.

Evanston has several other good restaurants. It also has a lovely remodeled depot, and a train yard, I guess it is, which is slated to become a town center. They have most of a roundhouse which they plan to convert to city offices and a plaza. They've already converted the machine house into a community use space for holding events. Elements of the original building can still be seen, including the train tracks and holes in the floor used for working on engines.

Evanston has an active music education and music scene which Bear River State Park along the river.

Lander

I'll probably have to write quite a lot about Lander over time. Lander is one of my favorite towns in Wyoming. For one thing, it is about the size Port Townsend was when I moved there, and I liked that--about 5000 people. Lots of artists, with a core of non-art people who have lived here forever. It has a sweet downtown and some very good eateries. The Cowfish and the Gannett Grill, right next to each other, are two of my favorites. The Gannett is casual--huge salads, pizza, burgers and some more "healthy" type stuff. There's a bar attached and a deck to eat outside. The Cowfish is more upscale with sophiscated Asian and American cross cusine. A section of their menu is called "Bowl Food" and, well, you get this huge bowl of spaghetti, or Thai curry, or other interesting food. The Gannett and the Cowfish share a yard and they have an organic garden which provides herbs and vegetables for salads and flavoring, and the Gannett serves organic beef, too. Definite points in their favor! They have a brewery attached, which provides the beer for the Gannett too. It's a Snake River Brewery, which originated in Jackson, and they have some nice beers. Nothing like that Framboise Lambic I mentioned a post or two ago, but some very good ones. There is also an excellent bakery called Wildflower which bakes yummy fresh bread, makes soup and sandwiches and good coffee.

Lander is a great town to walk in--the Popo Agie river runs through it and there's a river walk which feels secluded and wild. There's a mixture of house styles which is pleasing to the eye. Sinks Canyon State Park is just a few minutes away and this is a park that should be on the MUST SEE list. The Sinks are fascinating and there's nothing like this anywhere in the world--the water goes underground and no one really knows where it goes, or what it does, until it rises further downstream. They know it is the same water because they did die tests. There's a gorgeous hike up to a waterfall, but I don't recommend it for anyone who is not acclimated to the altitude. It is quite a climb, but breathtakingly beautiful--both the way, and the falls. Don't think too hard about swimming, though, because the water is cold. Very cold. Ice melt cold. Teeth aching cold. But possibly worth it on a very hot summer day, as you'll be practically dead anyway once you get there and it will revive you.

Enough for now, as I don't want to just skim over everything Lander has to offer.

Thermopolis

Thermopolis is a lovely little town in the center of the state with one of the world's largest natural hot springs. Thermopolis is the site of Hot Springs State Park, which has a free bathhouse. The park is a beautiful site where the hot springs run over colored terraces and which is the home to the Hot Springs Bison Herd.

There are two nice hotels in the park itself--the Best Western Plaza Inn and the Holiday Inn. The Best Western is a restored hotel with log furniture and breakfast and a hot springs fed hot pool, plus a swimming pool in the summer. The Holiday Inn also has a hot springs pool and a restaurant. The hotel has a safari theme with pictures of people hunting and many preserved animals all over the place.

Downtown there's a lovely gallery and museum. Sunshine Gallery is owned by a local metal artist and stocks artwork by artists from in state and elsewhere across the country. There's an excellent museum well worth the stop called Dancing Bear Folk Art Center. This center showcases traditional arts, including exhibits and demonstrations of spinning, weaving, food ways, marbles, needle felting and much more. It has the largest collection of artist bears in the country. During the annual marble exhibit, which includes old and new marbles of all sizes, they have a variety of marble games available to play with, including musical marble trees. Above the Folk Arts Center is the Old West Wax Museum.

One other spot to stop is Domhoff Gallery, which is on the Worland road north of town on the west side. Two potters live there, mother and son, and they do unusual dinnerware and a variety of other functional pottery. They were both trained in Germany.

Restaurant Disclaimer

Before I go any further into restaurants, here is the disclaimer.

I am picky. I grew up with two parents who cook "gourmet," although their definitions of that are very different, and one, at least, would be offended by the designation (the trials of having parents!). I prefer to eat fresh food, and organic, if possible. I like to cook, and love to bake, and am sometimes (regularly) good at it.

I eat out ALL the time. Way too often, really.

This might let you know why I tend to be somewhat negative about restaurants.